Flatwater Farms and River St. Joe Brewery: The Journey from Industrial Farm to Organic Showpiece

Converting a conventional farm to Certified Organic requires three years to ensure that non-organic fertilizers, pesticides and other unwelcome substances have been successfully scrubbed from the soil. It’s not a task to be taken lightly. Now imagine you’re a finance executive in Chicago who decides to buy a traditional farm in Michigan and go organic – while keeping your day job in the city.

When Fran Tuite acquired what would eventually become Flatwater Farms in 2014, the land had endured “years of spraying, no cover crops, little wildlife and maximized tilled acreage with most trees and plant life cleared right to the property line,” she recalls. Located just outside the town of Buchanan in southwestern Michigan, the farm had most recently been used to grow green peppers for a national pizza chain. What for Tuite had begun as a chance discovery eventually became a shared passion among family and friends to create an organic and sustainable enterprise dedicated to connecting a community of like-minded people.

Down on the (Organic) Farm

Tuite, an Indiana native, Purdue grad and collegiate rower, was looking for a weekend retreat outside of Chicago with access to a river. “I’d heard that several Olympic kayakers trained on the St. Joseph River near Buchanan,” she says, “so I looked around and bought an old log cabin there in need of repair.” During one weekend stay, Tuite noticed the farm across the road was up for auction. “I decided to make a bid for it, for the love of the land and farming,” she admits, quickly adding that her West Lafayette upbringing included lots of family gardening but no real farming experience.

From the beginning, the vision for Flatwater Farms was to restore the land with plants and trees that would nourish the soil and bring back native wildlife and insects. Fran and her farm manager built a barn, then made the strategic decision to cultivate hops to meet the demand generated by Michigan’s growing craft beer industry (more on that below). A small orchard soon followed, along with wildflowers, hundreds of trees and a vegetable, herb and flower garden.

Working with a knowledge deficit in organic farming, the group began adding experts and enthusiasts to its staff. “We hired a farm manager who was passionate about organic,” Fran says. “Then we found a conventional farmer interested in learning about it. He leased part of the property and we learned from each other.” Over time, other organic devotees found their way to Flatwater Farms.

Now Certified Organic, the farm grows more than 40 varieties of fruits and vegetables – and hops – and extends its growing season using geothermal energy and a wood-fired heat siphon to warm its greenhouses.

River St. Joe Farmstead Brewery

Michigan ranks among the top 10 nationally in its number of breweries, microbreweries and brewpubs, which means there is a huge demand for hops. Plus, during initial site planning, state legislation was being considered to offer incentives for breweries to use Michigan-sourced ingredients. This demand-plus-incentives equation prompted Flatwater Farms to grow hops – organically, of course – which presented its own challenges, since organic hops are more susceptible to mildew. “But we committed to it,” Fran Tuite says, and the Flatwater Farms crew proceeded to create the complex infrastructure of poles, cables and irrigation systems a hopyard demands. When a Chicago friend suggested a brewery on the property might be nice, the idea evolved into River St. Joe Farmstead Brewery.

Per the USDA’s organic standards, River St. Joe follows a specific set of protocols covering everything from ingredients to labeling, while adding its own sustainable standards. These practices include diverting the brewery’s spent grains and organic kitchen waste to compost and using compostable cups, plates and flatware to serve its seasonal, locally sourced menu of beer, wine and food. At peak production, the brewery generates approximately 50 percent of its electricity from three rooftop solar arrays and fuels the brew kettle of its 10-barrel brewhouse with propane, which heats quickly and efficiently.

Additionally, River St. Joe now disperses its wastewater on the farm rather than hauling it away, no small feat, Brewery Sustainability Specialist Josh Dickson explains, in light of state wastewater regulations. He credits the farm’s collaborative relationship with the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes and Energy’s (EGLE) groundwater coordinator. Dickson is also proud of the small amount of food waste the brewery generates, which he credits to “a good menu.”

Because communication and education are considered part of the farm’s mission, visitors can book tours to learn more about the operation’s sustainable practices. River St. Joe’s bartenders are also well-versed on the subject. Additionally, signage throughout the property notes where sustainable choices have been made, along with other reminders, including the electric car charger in the parking lot.

River St. Joe presently distributes a small amount of its beer to a few area restaurants and markets and plans to grow its distribution with a measured approach. Ann Tuite says this reflects the brewery’s lean staffing as well as “our desire to work with businesses that exercise good quality control and share our commitment to sustainability.”

Seasonal Labor a Major Concern

As with many Michigan farms, maintaining an adequate labor force is a constant issue. “We’re still a relatively small operation, and the cost of labor is a big hurdle we have in trying to be profitable,” Fran Tuite admits. While the farm retains a small year-round staff for regular farm and brewery duties, field crews are hired for hop harvesting, which must be done by hand. In the past, Flatwater Farms was able to recruit foreign agricultural workers from area vineyards looking for more work, “but recent immigration issues at the Mexican border have made it difficult,” Fran says.

Cost is another factor: In 2023, the U.S. Department of Labor set compensation for foreign-born farm workers on H-2A visas at $17.34 an hour. In addition to the availability and cost issues, Flatwater Farms lacks adequate facilities to house foreign workers during its busy season.

Fortunately, the farm has found some success in recruiting local high school and college students looking for summer work.

Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA)

Community-Supported Agriculture connects producers and consumers within the food system by allowing the consumer to subscribe to a farm’s harvest. By mid-2023, Flatwater Farms had more than 50 CSA members in addition to several wholesale accounts.

The farm’s CSA season typically runs from late May until early November, and as the farm entered its third season in 2023, its USDA-certified organic fruits and vegetables included a wide variety of potatoes, tomatoes, winter squash, beans, peas, watermelons and radishes.

Building More Connections to Community

Along with its brewery and CSA activities, Flatwater Farms and River St. Joe are always looking for ways to play a vital role in the surrounding community. Visitors are welcome. “We encourage people to bring their kids and dogs,” Fran says. “We want to unite people with different opinions and get them talking to each other. Our mission is to be a welcoming place of conversations and connections.”

Education is another important component. “Consumers don’t always understand why we are different,” Fran acknowledges. “Terms like ‘organic,’ ‘pasture-raised’ and ‘natural’ can be confusing. We need to do a better job of explaining it all.” Greenhouse classes are planned, along with other special events. At some point, a farm store will also be added.

In addition to its kid- and dog-friendly policy, Flatwater Farms has earned Bronze Certification as a Bicycle Friendly Business (BFB) by the League of American Bicyclists, representing another important constituency of health-conscious consumers. The farm and brewery also support a number of nonprofit initiatives including food banks, human rights organizations and substance abuse treatment programs. Fran further hopes to build closer ties among a growing group of organic farmers and related businesses in the area.

Meanwhile, there are signs that wildlife is returning to the former industrial green pepper farm. The beehives are thriving, more than 34 different bird species have been identified on the property, and the staff now has to mow some grassy areas to keep rabbits from nesting.

“It’s fun to walk the farm and see and hear nature coming back,” Fran Tuite says.